The north of
France was occupied in both World Wars and suffered a lot of damage, both to
humans and, more visibly, to buildings. Large areas of Valenciennes are very
new, not because the town planners thought it would be a good idea, but because
the area had been flattened and people needed places to live
and work, hospitals and administrative centres. Most families in the area must
have lost someone in one or both of them, so it’s felt quite different being
here compared to in the UK. There are the obvious differences: the numerous large
war cemeteries, the few graves tucked away in a small village graveyard.
The programme
of events had started with wreath-laying ceremonies at the Commonwealth and Russian
cemeteries, French Customs Officers and French people who died for their
country: soldiers, Resistance and people who had the strength of mind to stand
up for themselves.
We woke up too
late for this and Wilf went out to get bread. The baker’s is between us and the
cemetery. He was wearing jeans and a hoody and was running quite fast. Security
is tight today. The police car that passed him swung around at the roundabout
and asked him where he was going. He reckons that he was too old to be
considered a major threat and he was allowed on his way to buy the croissants.
We missed the “revue
of troops” but got there in time for the procession of sports clubs. We knew
there were quite a few clubs and that they seemed popular but were surprised that so
many people came out to walk, having heard of the struggle scout and church
groups have in the UK to turn out. It was all very relaxed: a stroll around the
square to the accompaniment of the town brass band, clubs with their uniform and usual equipment, kids, parents, grandparents, several
hundred showing their support for the football team. Lots of smiles, waves and
clapping from the spectators and participants. Once all had gone by, the music
was halted and we heard De Gaulle’s speech telling the country that the war was
over.
There was no silence
at eleven o’clock.
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| My new running and Nordic walking club |
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